Surfing is a sport/hobby that takes a lot of energy,time and love. I never realised how difficult it is, I thought after a few hours I would learn how to stand on the surfing board at least but I was wrong. I struggled. The waves hit me, at one point the waves had dropped me off my board and as I was getting up to get on it again, the next thing I saw was a flying board coming towards my face. It was not the post painful experience of my life but it was scary because without thinking twice I thought I was going to drown. But it was way to shallow for that to happen.
Beaches in Australia are dangerous if you have no idea when or where to be careful. Rips can pull you far away and it is difficult to get out of them if you have not experienced this before. I have and it was not the best thing! I was basically trying to get out of the water and out of nowhere, without even realising I got stuck in a rip, it was just pulling me back and these two girls came towards me and told me what to do to get away from it but I was getting tired! Eventually I managed with their help to escape!
Surfing
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Getting ready to go to surf
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Finding it difficult to get on board
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Finally did it
